Park the car, explore Seattle's oldest neighborhood by boat, bus and on foot

 

The King County water taxi at Seacrest dock

Glide across Elliott Bay on the top deck of a high-speed catamaran to a scenic peninsula isolated by water on three sides.

Pick up a free shuttle to a funky neighborhood shopping hub lined with cafes, antique shops, two bakeries and a destination deli. Then stroll downhill to a paved waterside path dotted with pocket parks and pebbled beaches.

Where are you? 

If you didn't guess West Seattle, then you are in for a treat. With bridge access closed to most car traffic since March after cracks were discovered, Seattle's oldest neighborhood would not seem to fit the description for a hassle-free day trip.

Leave the car at home, however, and you've got the makings for a delightful Covid-friendly fall getaway.

All aboard the water taxi

Think of this trip as a throw-back to a time when crossing Elliott Bay by boat was the only way to get to and from the neighborhood where Seattle's first European settlers landed in 1851.  

Passage in those days was aboard a steam-powered side-wheeler. Today, the best way to avoid the bridge closure hassles is by walking on the King County Water Taxi traveling between Pier 50 on the Seattle waterfront and Seacrest Park in West Seattle.

Grab a seat on the top deck for views of the Seattle skyline and the big container ships parked in Elliott Bay. The 15-minute crossing is a bargain at $5 each way (discounts for seniors and youths). Racks accommodate "fat tire" and electric bikes, and to ease traffic congestion while the bridge is being repaired, winter service has been extended to include weekends and more mid-day sailings. 

Shuttle to the Junction

The first ferry commuters rode up the hill to the developing Admiral District in a cable car. Today, free DART minibuses meet the water taxi and shuttle passengers between Seacrest and the West Seattle Junction shopping district. 

If you're here on a Sunday, check out the year-round West Seattle Farmers Market at California Ave SW & SW Alaska. Otherwise, spend an hour or two exploring both sides of California Avenue SW. 

Vintage vinyl for sale at Easy Street Records

Pop into Easy Street Records for coffee and Brandi Carlile's new album on vinyl, or browse the shelves at Pegasus Book Exchange where 90 percent of the stock is used books. 

Whatever the time of day, stop for ice cream at Husky Deli, in business since 1932. Order a scoop of Mexican horchata or Swiss chocolate-orange, and take a seat along a wooden counter facing shelves lined with gourmet mustards, coffee and spaghetti sauce. 

Relaxing at the Husky Deli

Do take time to peak at the backsides of buildings covered with murals depicting scenes from West Seattle's past, commissioned in 1989 as a community project led by civic leader Earl Cruzen. 

The Hi-Yu Parade Mosquito Boat Landing murals

Find a list of locations and descriptions at https://fotoeins.com/2020/09/21/my-seattle-murals-westseattle. Notable are the “The Hi Yu Parade” by Lanny Little, on the back wall of the post office;  the “Mosquito Boat Landing”, by Susan Tooke,  at 4554 California Ave SW; and "Mural Alley,"  a passageway between Northwest Art and Frame and the Puerto Vallarta restaurant, repurposed as a showcase for community art. 

Beach walking

Leave the Junction for a fall beach walk, starting by following Erskine Way SW at the intersection of California and SW Edmunds Street, then walking downhill for about a mile towards the water along SW Hudson Street to SW Jacobsen Road and Beach Drive SW. 

From here, it's about a 1.5-mile stroll along a waterside path to the closest shuttle stop (DART bus 775)  back to the Seacrest dock, or a total of 3.3 miles if you walk the whole way along the Alki beachfront. Rental scooters are available at various points along the way.

Pocket parks

Stroll along Beach Drive, and explore a few of the city pocket parks with benches, scenic overlooks and beach access at low tide.

The first is Emma Schmitz Memorial Overlook, donated to the city in 1945 by Emma Schmitz "for a park and ... no other purpose whatsoever."

Further north is Cormorant Cove, named for cormorant birds that can sometimes be spotted. There's access for non-motorized boats and accessible viewing platforms.

Running parallel to Beach Drive, from 63rd Ave. SW to Alki Point, is the Charles Richey Sr. Viewpoint that includes  Constellation Park and a marine reserve. 

Cormorant Cove pocket park 

Check out the tiled interpretive wall with text in Spanish and English. Its illustrations of flora and fauna include species found on local beaches. This is one of the best spots in Seattle to see whales and other marine life. 

From here, make your way back to Seacrest dock, either by shuttle, scooter, rental bike or on foot along a paved path running the length of Alki Beach. 

Cocktails at Marination Ma Kai

If the next water taxi is due in soon, consider catching a later boat, and stopping for a cocktail or late lunch on the patio of Marination Ma Kai, a Hawaiian-Korean snack bar. 

Transport yourself to the tropics with a Mai Tai sipped under a red umbrella, and relax, knowing you won't be stuck in traffic on the way back to town.

This article appeared in the Seattle Times on Nov. 1