Parting ways with Delta Air Lines

Delta Air Lines made a big push into the Seattle market in the past few years, gaining customers by partnering with Alaska Airlines, then gradually going its own way by establishing competing routes, lowering mileage awards for flights booked on Alaska, and finally as of May, breaking off the alliance in pursuit of its goal to dominate West Coast travel.

While Delta has profited from the moves, my impression is that its customers have not. Delta's systems have failed to keep up with its growth, the reason it was slower than other airlines to recover from delays and cancellations caused by recent storms. The mess was inexcusable, but it's longer-term trends that are behind my decision to forfeit by Silver Medallion elite status in 2018. 

Why am I leaving Delta? Let me count the ways:

*Prices: Nearly every Delta ticket I've purchased in the past few years has been priced higher than I would have paid on another airline. Delta's revenue requirements for maintaining elite status have become a Catch 22.  What started as a $2,500 annual spending requirement in 2014 has risen to $3,000 - not including taxes or baggage fees. I found myself paying higher fares and settling for less convenient flights just to meet the requirement. 

One of my biggest beefs is that Delta fares between Seattle and Paris or Seattle and Amsterdam are nearly always higher than they are in and out of Vancouver, B.C., 140 miles north. A Seattle-Paris non-stop, round-trip in June is $1,537 on Delta's website vs. $1,052 (U.S dollars.) between Vancouver and Paris. A Seattle-Amsterdam round-trip is $1,290 vs. $1,012 (U.S.) in and out of Vancouver. 

Elite status meanwhile, is worth less and less. Rows of seats that used to be reserved for Medallion members now go to those who pay extra for Economy Comfort. Silver elites board in Zone 1, along with credit card holders and after those who pay extra for Economy Comfort. Upgrades rarely happen anymore, and when they do, it's to a middle seat in Economy Comfort, not comfortable enough for me to give up an aisle seat in coach.

Monitoring my account to make sure Delta credited me with the correct amount of Medallion Qualifying Dollars (MDQs) became a nuisance. I was shorted at least twice. Delta corrected the error after I contacted them, but who needs the hassle?

Another example: Delta recently failed to credit my husband with miles flown on a rebooked flight from Atlanta to Seattle, following a weather-related cancellation. A representative explained that Delta identified an error in its mileage posting system, causing eligible flights to be declined for appropriate credit. Delta was "working feverishly to resolve the matter," he said. That was two weeks ago. The miles still have not been posted.

*Mileage partnerships: Delta's break with Seattle-based Alaska Airlines means means customers will no longer be able to redeem Alaska miles for Delta flights (valuable for overseas travel), or get any benefits from being an Alaska MVP when flying on Delta.

Delta's partnerships with other airlines are weak when it comes to earning MDQs.  A business class ticket on a flight marketed and ticketed by partner Air France earns only  25-35 percent of eligible MQDs. Korean Air flights, even if ticketed by Delta, earn none.

 *A decision to add basic economy fares (no overhead bin space, no seat reservations, last-to-board, no changes or refunds) on international routes, then bump up prices for standard fares - same seats in the same cabin, only with the ability to reserve, make changes (for a fee) and use the overheads. 

At last check, booking a ticket with Air France on Delta-operated code-share flights netted a better deal than booking with Delta. 

Air France, apparently unwilling to tell international travelers to stuff their carry-on under their middle seat, recently offered an October Seattle/Paris round-trip standard economy fare of $656, the same as Delta was charging for basic economy. Delta's website showed a fare of $719 - $63 more - for the standard economy service. The same $60-$70 difference also showed up on Delta-operated code-share flights between Seattle and Amsterdam and Atlanta and Madrid. 

I'll continue to fly Delta when it makes sense, but already I like the idea of becoming a free agent, liberated to book less expensive and more convenient connections on Delta/Air France through Vancouver, or on other airlines such as Emirates, Iceland Air and Hainan.

Next steps: I'll look at credit card options that offer perks such as early boarding and priority seating, and I'll look more closely at booking on Alaska when possible, or with one of its many partners on overseas flights. 

It's buyer beware when it comes to new "Basic Economy" airfares

Beware of the new "basic economy" discounted class of air fares offered by Delta, United and American airlines that don't allow changes or refunds; restrict seat selection and, in the case of United and American, limit carry-ons to whatever you can shove under your seat.

The idea is to compete against low-cost carriers such as Sprit and Frontier by offering less service in exchange for lower fares. The "savings" can be as little as $15 on a round-trip ticket, hardly worth getting stuck in a middle seat, being the last to board, and waiving your right to change your plans, even for a fee.

Not surprising is a recent NPR report that found the new basic fares that go into effect at United starting April 18 are mostly about finding a way to charge more for standard economy. 

NPR's check on United's website on the seven initial routes on which the airline will offer basic economy showed the lowest basic fares were the same as the lowest standard economy fares before April 18 while the standard fares went up $15-$20, essentially putting a surcharge on the right to choose a seat and use the overhead bins (United and American, but not Delta restrict carry-ons to a personal item that fits under the seat).

Delta, which became the first major American carrier to offer basic economy fares, appears to be doing something similar with international fares.  

I was surprised when I searched for fall fares to Paris recently to find that Delta has added basic economy on international routes. More surprising was finding that Delta's partner, Air France, offered a pair of flights in standard economy ($656) for the same price Delta was charging for basic economy. Delta's website showed a fare of $719 - $63 more - for standard economy. 

This was a Delta-operated flight by the way, meaning the airline is letting Air France (which apparently doesn't have the capability or the willingness to tell international travelers to stuff their carry-on under their middle seat) offer a better deal to customers savvy enough to find their way to its website.

Two more examples:

*Delta and Air France operate a code-share on a Delta non-stop between Seattle and Amsterdam. A check with Air France showed a standard, round-trip economy fare of $955 in May, the same price Delta quoted for basic economy. Delta's price for standard economy was $1,015, $60 more. 

*The differences were the same for Delta's Atlanta-Madrid nonstop in May. Air France sold the flight at $944, standard economy while Delta marketed its basic fare at that price, and its standard fare for $60 more. 

Adding to the confusion is that Delta calls standard economy "Main Cabin" on its booking site even though all the seats - basic and standard - are in the main cabin of the plane.

Don't count on the airfare search sites to be of much help. So far they fail to distinguish between basic and standard economy when they bring up the lowest fares. 

My search for the Paris, Amsterdam and Madrid fares on Google Flights brought up identical fares on Delta and Air France, with the option clicking on "Book with Delta" or "Book with Air France" to link to either for purchase. Only when I hit "Book on Delta'' did an itinerary pop up warning in small print that I was booking basic economy, with an offer to "upgrade" to standard economy (Delta calls it Main Cabin) for $30 extra each way.

Policies on basic economy restrictions vary with the airline. Delta's is the most liberal with no restrictions on overhead bin access. Passengers can choose their own seats after check-in on Delta while American and United auto assign seats. All three have different policies on seat selection, priority boarding and carry-ons for elite members of their frequent flyer programs. Click here for a good comparison chart offering by the Points Guy.

"It's getting a lot more confusing," Jeff Klee, founder and CEO of the travel search website, told NPR. "It'll be much more of a challenge to shop for air fares and it'll be important to make sure you're comparing apples to apples."

Discover new restaurants, shops, galleries in Honolulu's Chinatown

The renovated Hawaii Theater

HONOLULU, HAWAII - Mornings at Manifest, a cafe, lounge and arts venue in Honolulu's Chinatown, start with a latte and breakfast from the toast bar.  Afternoons and evenings morph into laptop time over bacon-wrapped dates and craft cocktails. 

Sharing the block with a Chinese herbal pharmacy, a jade  shop and a tattoo parlor, Manifest occupies an Italianate-style brick building on Hotel Street in a neighborhood once known for its strip clubs and X-rated theaters.Across the street, next door to where patrons at Smith's Union Bar start the morning with $2 beers, is Tchin-Tchin!, a rooftop wine bar serving drinks in a garden patio furnished with white sofas.  

Rooftop bar at Tchin-Tchin!

A block away in the Maunakea Marketplace, a man sits on a box as he hacks stalks of sugar cane with a machete while locals sip coconut juice next to a statue of Confucius. 
Call it the tale of two Chinatowns: Bakeries, lei makers and outdoor markets catering to a large ethnic population do business side-by-side art galleries, hip restaurants, bars and designer boutiques in a historic 12-block area designated as the Chinatown Honolulu Culture and Arts District. 

Tea at Manifest cafe
"This is one of the few places in town where you can still get cheap rent, so it tends to attract people willing to take a chance," says Mark Pei, co-owner of the Hound and Quail, 920 Maunakea St., a vintage shop specializing in medical antiques, old photo equipment and typewriters. 

Just a few miles from the high-rise glitter of Waikiki, Honolulu's Chinatown for years "had a reputation as one of the worst neighborhoods in the Pacific," says Rich Richardson of the Hawaii Academy of Performing Arts headquartered in the ARTS at Marks Garage, a gallery and performance space that serves as an unofficial visitors center. "It was a Red Light district during World War II, then a no-man's land after that." 

Changes began with Chinatown's designation as a historical district in the 1970s, a move that's preserved many of the one and two-story buildings constructed in the early 1900s after a major fire.

Sparked by the restoration of the historic Hawaii Theatre, and later the opening of Indigo restaurant (since closed), art galleries and new shops opened under owners attracted by cheap rents.

 "It was like SoHo in New York," recalls Sandra Pohl, owner of the Louis Pohl Gallery, making a comparison to the  Lower Manhattan neighborhood known for its artists' lofts and galleries. 

She and others got together and launched First Friday art walks which drew crowds of newcomers until the economy sputtered in 2008 and many of the galleries closed.

"It's much more quiet now," says Pohl who sells the work of her late husband, Louis Pohl, known for his paintings of Hawaiian volcanos. But First Fridays continue, with shops, galleries and restaurants inviting visitors to linger over cocktails and late-night happy hours. Aimed at attracting more families are new Second Saturday "DiscoverArt'' events with artist demonstrations, ukulele jams, craft displays and improv performances. 

Browsing to bluegrass tunes

One of the liveliest venues is the Hawai'i State Art Museum, 250 S. Hotel St. First Fridays always feature music - bluegrass on the night I visited - but also slack key guitar, harp and piano. Housed in a Spanish-Mission style building on the edge of Chinatown, the museum focuses on the work of contemporary artists who are either Hawaiian or have a connection to the islands.  

The Hawai'i State Art Museum's sculpture garden

Pohl calls the outdoor sculpture garden "magical at night," when lights transform what was a swimming pool into a shimmering blue surface resembling a skating rink . One of the reasons to come other times is to see the museum's collection of welded copper and brass wheels by Hawaiian sculptor Satoru Abe, now in his 90s. Another is to eat breakfast or lunch in the downstairs Artizen Cafe which makes its own Spam - a pork and sausage spread fed to the U.S. military stationed in Hawaii after World War II. 

A few blocks away from the museum is the Hawaii Theatre Center, 130 Bethel S., a historic Vaudeville theatre and cinema with a large neon, marque. First opened in 1922, and reopened in 1996 after a $20 million restoration, it's a popular venue for stage shows and concerts. At last check the theater no longer offered public tours, but visitors can usually peak inside when the box office is open.

Around the corner is the recently-expanded ARTS at Marks Garage,1159 Nu'uanu Ave., a community arts center and performance space on the ground floor of a parking garage owned by an arts patron. 

The ARTs at Marks Garage

First Friday nights bring a youthful vibe to Chinatown, says Melanie Yang, assistant at the Pegge Hopper Gallery,  1164 Nu'uanu Ave., open since 1983 in a building that once housed a Chinese herbal shop and barbershop.  "It's a different energy."

In4mation, 1154 Nu'uanu, a shop selling skater gear, tees and hoodies, used a fog machine, techno music and an offer of "beers flowing like wine"  to set the stage for a recent exhibit called "Overmind."  

Jewelry designer Cindy Yokohama  owner of Ginger13, 22 S. Pauahi St., hired a henna artist to apply free tattoos while customers sipped orange cocktails and tried on chunky necklaces and sets of mismatched earrings.  

Jewelry designer Cindy Yokohama

Clothing designer Roberta Oaks poured gin and tonics made with green cucumber soda for customers browsing through racks of the mens' shirts she sells at Aloha, her retail shop at 19th N. Pauahi St.. Next door, Phuong Tran, owner of Art Treasures Gallery, wore his signature straw hat as he guided visitors through his shop stocked like a mini-museum of Asian-inspired jewelry, antiques and artifacts. 

Phuong Tran at Art Treasures Gallery

Tea and chocolate

"Chinatown is mostly a locals spot," says Oaks, but drawing more tourists are new foodie destinations specializing coffee, tea and chocolate and restaurants featuring French, Latin, Moroccan, Italian and pan-Asian cuisines.

Barely visible from the street except for a small neon sign in the shape of a pig is the Pig and the Lady, recently named Oahu's best restaurant by Honolulu magazine.
Creating a menu filled with seafood and speciality noodle dishes, owner and chef, Andrew Le - the pig - took inspiration from recipes created by his mother Loan  - the lady - to go from pop-up restaurant, to farmer's market stand selling Vietnamese sandwiches  to his current bricks-and-mortar outpost at 83 N. King St. 

The Pig & the Lady
Morphing into a nightclub on First Fridays, with live music and samples of spiced hot chocolate, is Madre a bean-to-bar chocolate maker tucked into a storefront at 8 N. Pauahi St.Dr. Nat Bletter, CQ a researcher at the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa, drew on his expertise in ethnobotany to start making chocolate from scratch for friends 10 years ago. The hobby turned into a business, with a factory and shop in suburban Kailua, and later a store in Chinatown.

Bletter invites visitors to stop in for samples made from locally-grown cacao spiced with coffee, cinnamon, ginger and coconut, or sign up for "make your own chocolate bar" class. If he's around, he will show you around his urban garden where he experiments with growing cacao, sugar cane, lemon grass, figs and passion fruit.   

Chocolate from scratch at Madre

A two-minute walk from Madre is Tea at 1024, and English-style tea salon on Nu'uanu decorated with glass tables and chairs wrapped in pink bows. Owner Michele Sorensen  grew up in Tacoma, opened a design shop in Chinatown in 1997 and the tea shop in 1999.

"Years ago," she recalls, "there was nobody here...Now it's above amazing what's happening."

Despite the changes, she doesn't sugarcoat the lingering problems that come with a neighborhood in transition.

Extra police patrol the bars and restaurants on Hotel Street on First Fridays, and Sorensen says it's not unusual for her to come to work and find someone camped on her doorstep.

 "We're still interlaced with the homeless and drugs," she says. "If you have thick skin, and like to experience fun, cool places, come on down. If not, go to the mall."

If you go:

Getting there: Buses travel between Waikiki beach hotels and Chinatown. Trave time is about 30 minutes. 

Exploring: Take in the Chinatown arts and culture scene every First Friday of the month from 5 p.m.- 9 p.m. when shops, galleries and the Hawai'i State Art Museum stay open late. 

Second Saturday  "DiscoverArt" daytime events feature mini-classes,  music and arts and crafts demonstrations. Info at

Maps and information are available at the ARTS at Marks Garage, 1159 Nu'uanu Ave 

Moving on from Mandalay: Exploring Burma's Bagan and Lake Inle

Bagan at sunset

Boat, bus or fly? There are lots of ways to get to Burma's lost city of Bagan from Mandalay. We decided on a 10-hour boat trip along the Irrawaddy River with Malikha lines, using tickets I bought online for about $50 each. Departure time was 7 a.m., meaning it was still dark when the taxi dropped us off at the dock. Boys swarmed around us, offering to carry our bags, a good thing since boarding the boat meant walking from the road down a dirt hill in the dark - no steps or lights - then walking up and over another boat to reach ours. This was a middle-of-the-road cruise, not a luxury ship, but not a locals' boat either. A tour group filled only about half the seats, so most of us were able to sit in wicker chairs on the top deck instead of in the the air conditioned, airplane-type cabins below. 

Boat ride along the Irrawaddy River

Breakfast was hard-boiled eggs, bananas and jam sandwiches packed for us by our guesthouse. Our ticket  included a similar breakfast along with tea and coffee and a fried rice dish for lunch. I can't say the ride was all that scenic or interesting, but it beat taking the bus and gave us time to read, write, listen to podcasts and relax.


There are constant reminders that Myanmar still is a third-world country. It lacks the infrastructure found in more developed Southeast Asian countries such as Thailand or Vietnam. To reach land from where the boat docked in Bagan, everyone had to walk along this narrow gangplank to shore. 

Bagan Thande Hotel

We wanted to make the most of our stay in Bagan, so we splurged on an elegant, old hotel in Old Bagan, with the largest concentration pagodas, shrines and temples, built by kings starting in the 9th century. The Bagan Thande Hotel was the first hotel in Bagan, built in 1922 to welcome the Prince of Wales while Myanmar (Burma at the time) was controlled by the British. We stayed in a "superior bungalow" overlooking a Lilly pond and the swimming pool. With a buffet breakfast served on an outdoor terrace facing the river, our rate was $100, about double what we paid elsewhere on this trip.



There are more than 2,000 pagodas, monasteries, shrines and stupas in Bagan, many reconstructed in the 1990s by the military to repair earthquake damage. Art historians and preservationists have criticized the restoration work as inauthentic, and UNESCO denied the area World Heritage status in the mid-1990s (The Burmese are reapplying). Bagan is nothing like Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but it's still impressive. Bus tour crowds swarm some of the bigger pagodas which double as shopping malls for local souvenir sellers. We rented an electric scooter from our hotel ($10 a day) to tool around on our own, veering off the main road onto dusty side streets to find some of the smaller, unrestored pagodas.


Most fun was discovering what was inside. Most of the pagodas have four entrances, with different Buddha images placed in each niche. Burmese enforce the no shoes or socks rule in Bagan as they do for all other pagodas and monasteries in Myanmar. Everyone leaves their shoes at the entrance and walks through barefoot, often on uneven, stone walkways and steps. All shoes are safe. No one would even think about taking them.


Bagan is recognized internationally for its handmade lacquerware bowls, trays, boxes etc. made in small, family workshops. I've never been much of a fan of Asian lacquerware (it's also made in China, Vietnam and other countries), but Myanmar's products are different, and although the quality can vary greatly according to price, the colors are more vivid and the hand-etched designs more intricate than I've seen elsewhere. 


Craftsmen and women produce lacquerware products from bamboo or wood, then reinforce the object with either paper or horsehair and coat it with resin extracted from the local thitsi tree. We took our scooters to a village to look for a family workshop called Jasmine. Word got around that a couple of tourists with red helmets were asking directions. Within minutes Win, the owner, pulled up on his motorbike to lead he way (and avoid having to pay someone else a commission for showing us).

Win explains lacquerware process

It took about an hour explaining the process of coating each piece with 7-14 coats of resin in between sanding and drying. Cheaper pieces get fewer coats and take less time to produce, although all are hand-etched, then colored with natural colors, and finally polished with pieces of petrified wood.


Bowls are made from bamboo. Flat pieces such as trays and boxes are made from teak. We bought a $35 bowl from Win in traditional colors of red, black and green, then shopped at the souvenir stalls near the pagodas for several less expensive pieces.

Golden Empress in Nyaung Shwe

After leaving Bagan, we took a nine-hour mini-bus ride through the mountains to spend our last few days at the Golden Empress Hotel in the town of Nyaung Shwe at the base of Lake Inle, a fresh-water lake housing about 70,000 members of Intha ethnic minority group who live and work in floating villages reachable only by boat. 
Nyaung Shwe is a friendly town filled with hotels, guest houses and family-run restaurants surrounded by rural villages and farms. We've tried as much as possible on this trip to support local businesses as opposed to big government-owned hotels etc. Golden Empress owner Kyaw Khaing bought this hotel five years ago, and remodeled it with wood-paneled rooms, private bathrooms and little balconies furnished with massage chairs. He's added nice touches such as a fridge filled with cold bottle water in the lobby. With breakfast, we paid about $50 a night. 


The lake isn't known so much for its scenery as it is for the unique lifestyle of its villagers. Khaing arranged for us to spend a full day with a boatman ($15 for the day) starting at 8:30 a.m. He did a good job of steering us close to the fishermen so we could see their unusual technique of balancing on one leg, while wrapping their oar around the other, leaving their hands free to cash their nets. 


The Intha people first came to Lake Inle in the 18th century from Southeast Myanmar, fleeing Thai invaders. The chief refused to grant them land rights, so they built stilt houses on the fluctuating water line of the lake, adapting to life on the water by cultivating floating gardens anchored to the lake bed (about 7 feet deep in dry season) by bamboo polls.



Many of the homes house little cottage industries. Weavers spin fabric from lotus fibers. Villagers also make thin, green cigars called cheroots by wrapping a combination of tobacco, star anise, banana and honey in leaves.

Padaung women from the mountains of Burma’s Kayah State, close to the Thai border, have settled in Inle and have established village workshops among the local people where they weave and sell their wares to tourists. Sometimes called "long-neck" women because of the brass rings worn to lengthen their necks, they are not "tourist attractions'' as they are in some parts of Thailand where businessmen charge visitors to take photographs. No one here charges for photos, and there's no pressure to buy. Their style of weaving, however, is unique. I bought a beautiful black and white cotton scarf for about $15. The women start wearing the rings on their necks at 9 and finish at age 25 with 25 rings.

Two days here would have probably been enough, but we had a third due to our air connections back to Seattle from Yangon. It gave us time to leisurely explore Nyaung Shwe. We spent one day taking a 15-mile bike ride ($1 to rent seven-speed Chinese bikes for the day, with locks and baskets) into the countryside. The destination was a winery called Red Mountain. The wine was terrible, but the ride gave us a chance to see more of village life. Housing styles vary with people's income. Many homes are like one the one below, made of wood, thatched palm and thatched or metal roofs.


Others use concrete blocks, painted wooden shutters and ceramic materials. Stores tend to be open-air, street-front bungalows with dirt or concrete floors. Main roads are paved, but side roads are dirt, and trucks and motorbikes kick up a lot of dust. 


We've come to love Burmese food, heavy on the vegetables, salads and fish or chicken. One of our favorites is pennywort salad, made with grassy pennywort leaves, sesame, peanuts, lime juice, fish sauce and garlic. We also love the avacado salads with black sesame seeds, and meals such as the one we had at a little family restaurant called Htoo Htoo Aung. With nine tables on a cozy patio decorated with twinkling Christmas lights, the owners offered a  $6 set menu that included pumpkin soup made from their home-grown pumpkins; an appetizer of rice crackers served with an herbed tomato dip; sautéed greens; rice; and a whole fish steamed in a banana leaf. 


Our favorite part about staying in Nyaung Shwe was becoming regulars at the tea house down the street. The town has plenty of tourist places where you can get a good cappuccino, but we became addicted to Burmese tea, sold only in the local tea shops.  It's a work of art as well as a tasty 25-cent treat. Notice the thin layer of sweetened condensed milk at the bottom of the glass. You drink it seated at low tables on child-sized plastic stools, Snacks usually appear along with the tea. You pay for what you eat, or wave them away if you're not hungry. Decorating our local tea house was a shrine, two TVs playing "Rocky" and a picture of a golden Buddha image sitting on a pile of money. Hmm...I think I need another cup.

That's all for now from Myanmar. Click here to see more photos in our photo gallery.


Musings from Mandalay, and how to plan an independent trip to Burma

Burma 101: How to travel independently, get around, eat well, sleep well, meet people and see all the sights.

We put off a trip to Myanmar a couple of years ago because I didn't feel I had time research all that I thought the trip would involve. When I finally did get around to learning enough to start planning,  I was surprised at how much information was available for the independent traveler, and how easy it was to pull together an itinerary, and book everything from accommodations to ferry tickets online.

Our nine-hour ride on the "Joyous Journeys" bus from Yangon to Mandalay ended with a nice reward for all that planning. The Ma Ma Guesthouse, recommended on Trip Advisor, turned out to be the budget equivalent of a five-star hotel. It's hard to spend much money in Myanmar. Still for $50 a night, we didn't expect the comforts that awaited us. In a residential neighborhood not far from the walls of the former royal palace, Ma Ma was a sanctuary in a busy, dusty city that's nothing like the romanticized verson of Burma conjured up by poet Rudyard Kippling.

Ma Ma's owner, Su, and her husband, welcomed us with fruit juice, and checked us into a spacious double room with a  little balcony, good lighting, two beds, a modern bathroom with walk-in shower and CNN. Dinner that evening on the terrace was a medley of Burmese specialities (Su teaches cooking classes)  for $15.50 for the two of us including beer. After a breakfast of eggs, toast, fruit and tea the next morning, Su set us up with taxi drivers for two full days of sightseeing,  one day in the city ($23 for the whole day) and one day outside Mandalay for a trip to three ancient towns ($30). With each, we had the flexibility to spend as long as we wanted at each stop while the driver waited. 

Like it is in parts of China or India, Myanmar hotels and guesthouses double as de facto travel agencies, booking bus and boat tickets; finding taxi drivers or private guides; and making sure you get onto your next destination safely and on time. All of this was especially helpful in  Mandalay where there's no public transportation, and sights are spread out and far from each other. 
Su outlined the stops our taxi drivers would make. They spoke some English, but not enough to act as guides, so we used guidebook to fill in the information gaps. We've become addicted to Burmese tea, black tea laced with sweetened condensed milk. Our taxi driver was more than happy to oblige when we asked if we could stop for some after lunch. He took us to his favorite tea house where a quick cup cost about 35 cents.

Burmese prize gold leaf for temple offerings, and Mandalay is one of the few places in Myanmar where it's made by hand in the traditional way. Our driver stopped at workshop where we watched workers pounding and repounding bits of gold with wooden mallets to create paper-thin sheets. Cut and packaged into tiny envelopes, it's sold in temples where Buddhists believe they earn merit or  have a wish granted by pressing the gold onto a Buddha image. In most pagodas, only men are allowed to do this. The Buddha pictured below, in Mandalay's Mahamuni pagoda, is weighted down with an estimated two tons of gold. While in the temple, we met one of the trustees who happens to be an English teacher in Mandalay. He was anxious to practice his English, and explained a few things we were wondering about such as if the pagoda's glistening pillars were made of real jade. "Yes" And why women can't put gold leaf on the Buddhas. "It's cultural, nothing to do with religion."

The seat of the last rulers independent Burma before the British took over, Mandalay was built in the mid-19th century. Its royal palace was destroyed during World War II, and rebuilt in the 1990s, mainly for military use.

Mandalay's commerce includes a busy Buddha-carving center and an open-air jade market where Chinese buyers come to haggle over slabs of raw jade mined in northern Myanmar. Using little flashlights to check for color and quality, they bargain with the sellers, usually women who also sell jade necklaces, earrings and bracelets. Myanmar hasn't yet caught on to selling fake goods made in China, so the assumption can be made that what you see for sale is real, whether it be jade, lacquerware or fabric, although the quality can vary with the price. 

Covered stairways lead to many of the major pagodas. The most well-known is Mandalay HIll, where 1,729 steps lead to the 800-foot summit. The guidebooks say it takes about 45 minutes to walk to the top; It took us about an hour. The hardest part was having to walk barefoot - a rule for entering any pagoda or monastery in Myanmar.
Along the way we passed many shrines with big Buddha images, and lots of souvenir and food stalls. Mandalay has some beautiful sunsets, and many people try to arrive at the top in time to take in the early evening views. We didn't realize until we made it to the top that there was an elevator. Our feet hurt going up, and our calves hurt for two days after coming down. 
We spent our second day exploring towns surrounding Mandalay, taking a ferry to the farming village of Inwa; visiting a pagoda said to house the world's largest book carved on stone tablets; and ending up at the U Bein Bridge at sunset. The U Bein is a teak footbridge built in the mid-1800s, stretching about 0.7 miles across Lake Taungthaman in the town of Amarapura. 

Hundreds of tourists show up at sunset to walk across and take photos. Holding the bridge up are more than 1,000 wooden pillars and a few concrete poles.

Onto Bagan on a ferry along the Irrawaddy River. Click here to see more pictures in our photo gallery.

Travel in the time of Trump


As I write this, my husband and I are on a ferry traveling along the Irrawaddy River from Mandalay to Began in Myanmar (Burma). Between bites of hardboiled eggs, toast and sips of tea, we photograph low-slung fishing boats and gilded pagodas rising from the hillsides like golden trees.

Today is our 41st anniversary, one of many over the years we've spent traveling to parts of the world with cultures and religions different from anything we ever encountered growing up in Cincinnati, Ohio. Here in Myanmar, a country moving slowly from the third world into the first with a shift from military rule to a secular democracy, we've walked barefoot through pagodas filled with giant, smiling Buddha images; strolled past Muslim mosques and Hindu temples; and stepped inside a Jewish Synagogue. We're "foreigners," or so we're labeled by signs advising us to observe local customs such as paying a fee to enter a monastery, "and take pride ( in) yourself for being (a) good citizen of your country."


Many American travelers might find it difficult to muster a sense of pride in the coming days and months as the Trump administration's careless immigration policies take effect, upending the United States' reputation as a nation that welcomes all, regardless of race, religion or ethnicity. Reckless strongmen rule many countries. Now one rules ours.
What should we do? First off, we should keep traveling. Friends back home in Seattle have been asking me if we are "safe." I hate the question, and I hate having to give an answer. Apart from being careful about pickpocketing etc. (not an issue here in Myanmar), I've never worried about terrorism or "anti-American sentiment." 

Real Americans, the ones who make an effort to get to know people of different religions and cultures, whether at home or abroad, are our country's best ambassadors. Now, more than ever, your country needs you. As travelers, it's our job to show the world that Donald Trump's rhetoric, policies and attitude do not reflect who we are - as a people or a country.

With James Brown, our guide on a street food walking tour of Yangon

The people whom we have met in Myanmar are curious about what's going on in the U.S. under Trump. His picture appears on the front page of local papers everyday. When they ask where we are from, and we say "America," they said "Donald Trump." If you're traveling somewhere and don't know the language well enough to explain how you feel, I suggest practicing the "thumbs down'' gesture, which, combined with a smile or an eye roll, gets the point across. 

If anti-American sentiment does develop in countries popular with travelers, such as Morocco or Turkey, it most likely will be directed towards the U.S. government rather than individual travelers. This is not to say that international travel will not become more difficult for Americans. Other countries could retaliate with travel bans (Iran and Iraq already have) or cumbersome visa rules such as the ones the Trump Administration imposes on them. Americans have become a bit spoiled by how easy it is to travel. Myanmar, for instance, issued our visas overnight through a $50 online application. Our visas into Dubai, where we spent several days before coming here, were issued free on arrival with a quick stamp in our passports. 

European countries participate in the same visa waiver program for Americans as the U.S. extends to European citizens. If Trump is serious about stopping potential terrorists from entering the U.S., will he begin requiring our allies to apply for visas?  Most of the terrorists in Europe have been European citizens recruited by ISIS. If Trump's next step is "extreme vetting" and visa requirements for Germany, France or Brussels, why wouldn't they do the same, perhaps requiring Americans to verify their status with the French embassy before their next trip to Paris.

I would think the powerful U.S. Travel Association would be all over the potential economic consequences of Trump's bungling.. Spending by international travelers to the U.S. created  7.6 million jobs in 2015 and $246 billion in spending, according to the National Travel and Tourism office.

 Boycots will no doubt arrise on their own, but I'm for getting behind one now, and urging our foreign friends NOT to visit the U.S. until things change.

When cruise lines start losing bookings and hotel rooms go unfilledl because Chinese, Mexican and European travelers are no longer coming  to the U.S., maybe those with economic clout will end their silence, and convince Republicans to stop their cowering, and take action to make America great again in the eyes of the rest of the world.

Myanmar's move towards modernization starts in Yangon

Student nuns in Yangon
Myanmar's largest city of Yangon (formerly Rangoon) rolls into one everything I love about Southeast Asia's big cities. More than Bangkok in Thailand, or Saigon or Hanoi in Vietnam, Yangon has a foot planted firmly in the third world as it moves slowly into the first. Leaving the lobby of the five-star Sule Shangrala hotel where we met a guide for a  walking tour around downtown, we ran into this parade of young Buddhist student nuns making their morning rounds for alms. Stand on any street corner, and you'll hear the sound of car horns blasting, monks chanting prayers on temple loudspeakers and vendors hawking snacks fried in sizzling oil. 

Street food
Have a cup of Burmese tea laced with sweetened condensed milk while seated on a child-sized plastic stool on a broken sidewalk, or enjoy it in air conditioned comfort in a swank cafe. Browse through a bookstore filed with English-language titles, or choose from dozens of newspapers laid out for sale on street corner tables. 
Sule Pagoda

Yangon is best-known for its giant Buddha images and gilded pagodas, lighted like fields of gold at night. Impressive, yes, but a bigger reason to spend some time here before moving on to Mandalay, Bagan or other parts of the country, is to experience Yangon's vibrant street life and its gentle people, calm and unschooled so far in the art of overcharging, pick-pocketing or taking advantage of foreign travelers. 


After years of being closed off under military rule, with little or no foreign investment, Internet access or freedom of speech, the country is making changes as it shifts to a civilian-style government with power shared by military leaders and pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi. Almost any guidebook information written before last year is likely to be outdated. ATMs are everywhere, so there's no longer a need to bring U.S. dollars. Most everyone accepts kyat, the local currency, although many hotels, tour guides etc. quote prices in dollar. More and more places take credit cards. The Burmese themselves use cash for most transactions, including big purchases such as homes and apartments.

Tourism is growing, but we haven't seen as many groups as I expected, at least in Yangon. There's almost no crime or safety issues, but human rights are still a concern, given the recent military crack-down on the Rohingya ethnic tribe in the northern Rakhine state. 

We've met a few Brits and Australians, but no Americans so far. With U.S. economic sanctions only recently lifted by the Obama Administration, there are no Starbucks, MacDonald's or other fast-food chains. 

Filling whole neighborhoods are streets lined with faded colonial architecture left over from when British controlled Myanmar (late 1880s-1948). It's possible to go anywhere in a taxi for $2 or less. A mojito at the Sky BIstro on the 20th floor of the Sakura Tower overlooking the city was $3 at happy hour. Dinner with drinks at the stylish Rangoon Tea House was around $17 for two. Our room at the Lotus B&B was $40 a night with breakfast and private bath (shower and toilet in one room with no curtain to separate them).

Our guide Michael Lin
Burmese-born guide Michael Lin, 49, introduced us to some of the cultural aspects of life in Yangon during a four-hour walk with Yangon Walking Tours our first day in town. The oldest of six children, he grew up with a mother who opposed the military rulers who staged a coup 12 years after Myanmar (then Burma) gained independence from British. Lin's mother wanted to leave Burma, but his father supported the new government, and wanted to stay. His mother died before they could leave, so Lin stayed, graduated from university and now, like thousands of locals, makes his living as an entrepreneur, acting as a freelance tour guide, dabbling in real estate and operating a gaming business. Real estate prices have soared (one report put prices per square foot higher in downtown Yangon than in Manhattan) as investors look for new places to park their cash. 


Our first day wandering around Yangon yielded interesting peeks into Burmese life. Almost everything is sold in the open air, either from small, walk-in store fronts or carts set up by sidewalk vendors. New rules require food vendors in some areas to move into city-controlled food courts, a move many are resisting because they don't want to pay the fees, or lose the freedom to move around. Below are quail eggs, a popular snack we found on a street food walking tour with James Brown, 29, a part-time youth minister for a Baptist church.

Many men and women enter a Buddhist monastery for some period in their lives, often to get an education. The girls below are young Buddhist nuns, out with their begging bowls which passersby fill with rice, snacks or money. 


Nearly every woman and a few men wear Thanaka cream on their faces. It's both a cosmetic and sun block. The cream comes from a tree bark that's shaved and mixed with water into a paste. 



Streets jammed with cars, pedestrians and sidewalk vendors give way to rural life within a few minutes train or ferry ride from the city. Tourists can take the "Circle" train, a commuter train that calls at 39 stations in three hours, for the local fare of 15 cents. 


A 10-minute ferry ride to the rural village of Dala , on the other hand, costs foreigners $3, but comes with a free bottle of water, and special plastic chairs labeled "foreigners only."  We preferred just to sit with the locals on bench seats, and enjoy the breeze.


Burmese temples are known for their oversized Buddha images. Visible from all over the city is the Schwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar's most sacred Buddhist shrine. The centerpiece is a 325-foot-high stupa, gilded from the metal of 22,000 gold bars, and believed to enclose the relics of four Buddhas. Rules require all visitors to walk though pagodas barefoot. Shoes and socks must be checked at the door with an attendant, or you're free to carry them around in a bag. The floors are either marble or covered with soft linoleum or carpeting, so even on hot days, walking barefoot isn't too bad.




There are numerious shrines within Schwedagon where visitors can sit and pray, light insense, sleep, read the newspaper, or offer gifts such as bottles of water or oranges. 


I alwasys wanted to own by own bakery, but someone in Yangon beat me to it. A friend told me about this place, so we found it on the map and asked a taxi driver to take us.  I bought several items just because they came in bags labeled Pucci Special Cake.


As I write this, we're on our way to Mandalay on the Joyous Journey Express, a first-class, air-conditioned bus with comfortable seats, snacks, tea and just a few other people on board. The ticket was $19 for a nine-hour journey. The bus company apparently has a Christian affiliation. Written on the side of the bus are the words "The Way, the Truth and the Life,: and on the front, "Thy Kingdom Come. Thy Will be Done in Earth as in Heaven."

That's what I love about Asia travel - always a surprise!

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