Closing out international travel in 2023: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

 

Skip the Global Entry kiosks with this mobile app

Who would expect the U.S. government to be helpful when it comes to smoothing the hassles of air travel? 

Who would expect a respected organization representing people over 50 to be promoting a rip-off passport scheme?

And who would expect a major travel magazine to nominate a war-torn country for a "Readers' Choice" award?

Examples of all three crossed by inbox this week. Let's label them examples of The Good, the Bad and the Ugly of travel as we close out 2023.

The Good: U.S. Customs and Border Protection's Global Entry Mobile App.

Members of the government's Global Entry trusted traveler program can skip the kiosk checks at many airports when reentering the country from an international destination by downloading the Global Entry Mobile Application available on the Apple App store or Google Play.

Most Global Entry kiosks no longer require passports and fingerprints, but instead clear incoming passengers through facial recognition. Once pictures are taken, an immigration officer sees your information on a screen and waives you through.

The app allows you to skip the kiosk check entirely by registering your Known Traveler number ahead of time, then taking a selfie when you arrive and hitting "submit."

So far, 15 airports have been approved to accept the app including Seattle Tacoma International, Los Angeles, Washington Dulles and Chicago O'Hare.

AARP promo for passport services

The Bad: AARP's "Rush My Passport" service.

"Renewing your U.S. passport has never been easier," touts a promotion on the AARP website advertising "exclusive pricing" on U.S. Passport renewal "bundles" through a private vendor passport and visa service called RushMyPassport. 

Apparently following the clear and detailed directions on the U.S. State Department's passport application and renewal site is too complicated for those over 50, the group of citizens that the AARP represents.  

Thus, the idea that it's some how worth it to pay $415 for it's "Expedited Service Bundle" (estimated 5-week wait) vs. the $190 you'd pay by filling out the forms on the government's website and applying for expedited renewal ($130 for regular service plus $60 for expedited) directly by mail.

The RushMyPassport charge for its "Smart Service Bundle," - standard renewal (estimated 10-week wait) - is $335 vs. the government's fee of $130.

What does a "bundle" include for the extra money? According to the AARP/RushMyPassport website, it includes:

*A user-friendly online experience

*All government and shipping fees (postage)

*Document pre-check for accuracy

*Concierge-level assistance and dedicated support

Really?...And no mention that passport processing times have returned to pre-pandemic standards, according to the State Department. Routine services taking between six and eight weeks, and expedited services two to three weeks. That’s about a month faster than the estimated wait times from this March.

The Ugly: Conde Nast Traveler's annual Readers' Choice awards, ranking Israel as a top destination.

"The past two months have been challenging for Israel," reads a tone deaf press release, "but good news has arrived with the announcement of Conde Nast Traveler’s annual Readers’ Choice Awards, which ranked Israel as the eighth Best Country in the World. In addition, Tel Aviv was the third most Googled city in 2023."

"This news is sure to boost the morale and spirit of our many travel partners and stakeholders across the county as well as the people of Israel," said Eyal Carlin, tourism commissioner to North America for the Israel Ministry of Tourism.

“We’ve been working closely with our travel advisers, encouraging them to work with their clients to postpone travel to Israel, not cancel it. "

Postpone? The reality is that everything has changed since the Oct. 7 Hamas attack. it will be a long time before this part of the world will be in a position to welcome visitors. In the meantime, there are more critical concerns than restarting tourism. 

Cookbooks, YouTube videos, Zoom gatherings guide travelers to Palestine

Urfa, Turkey, the city of Abraham dedicated to the patriarch of Christianity, Judaism and Islam

"Have you been to Israel?'' is a common question.

I haven't, but in thinking about a future trip, I've stumbled onto a trove of information on Palestinian history, culture and food. I know now that the West Bank, including the cities of Hebron and Ramallah, will be on my itinerary.

This assumes a post-Covid era when more vaccinations have reached Palestinians, and international travel in general opens again. But Israel is leading the world in vaccinations, and while it's not yet possible to travel there, it is a good time to begin researching the possibilities beyond Jerusalem and Tel Aviv.

Travel guidebook author and television host Rick Steves' excellent YouTube video titled "The Holy Land: Israel and Palestine Today," is good place to start. Along with the usual religious and historical sites in Jerusalem, Steves leads viewers to an olive harvest near Hebron, a family home in Bethlehem and a university in Ramallah. 

Most useful is a 48-page downloadable guide Steves compiled that blends historical background with practical advice.

"Arriving in Bethlehem, I checked into my guesthouse, and within minutes, met my Palestinian tour guide," Steves writes."He took me to a tourist-friendly restaurant that posted a “families only” sign so they could turn away rowdy young men. I guess we looked harmless enough, as they let us right in. We sat down, and an impressive array of Palestinian dishes appeared.

"For too many, unfortunately, the word 'Palestinian' raises an automatic association with terrorism. Because of this fear, the typical Christian pilgrimage tour visits Bethlehem as a side-trip from Israel...These unfortunate travelers miss a lot and come home with only one narrative. "

Reem Kassis

East Jerusalem native Reem Kassis, author of The Palestinian Table and a new book, The Arabesque Table, expressed the same sentiment in a recent interview with NPR's Terry Gross. 

"It's comical because all it takes is for me to use the word 'Palestinian' and anything that I want to talk about — no matter how far removed from politics — suddenly it's political," she said.

Kassis' books could double as travel guides to Palestine and other parts of the Middle East with insights into the Arabic origin of familiar foods such as hummus and bagels. She uses food as a common denominator, stressing that  "regardless of where you come from or what religion you are or what your beliefs are, you have to eat. "

Another excellent resource is the The Abraham Path Initiative (API), a nonprofit organization established to develop walking trails for tourists to learn about the people and culture of the Middle East, a geographical description it replaces with "Southwest Asia" to avoid pre-conceived judgements.

Pilgrams in Abraham's Cave, Urfa, Turkey

API started when 25 people embarked on a trip from Urfa in Turkey to Hebron, following the prophet Abraham’s legendary walk from what may have been his place of birth, to the place he is believed to be buried. This laid the foundation for the development of walking trails approximating the travels of Abraham and his family in Mesopotamia, who shared hospitality with people they met along the way

Since that time, API has worked with local partners to create over 2,000 miles of trails in Turkey, Jordan, Palestine, Sinai, and Iraq, providing economic benefits to local communities and opportunities for walkers to have positive intercultural encounters. 

During Covid, I've enjoyed tuning into API's Webinars on YouTube featuring interviews with people in those areas involved in organic farming, olive oil production, seed sourcing and Saudi tourism. Check the website for upcoming Zoom events.

Anyone looking for an organized tour into Palestine might want to consider one of the "Reality Tours" offered by San Francisco-based Global Exchange, an international nonprofit dedicated to promoting social and economic justice.

All tours are on hold for the moment, but pre-Covid, the group sponsored an annual "Palestine During the Olive Harvest" trip where visitors had the opportunity to volunteer with local farmers.  Travelers took part in Oktoberfest in Taybeh, featuring traditional Palestinian dance, music, and food. This trip has been on my list for some time, so I'm hoping it will restart in the fall of 2022 if not this year. 

"Marhaba! I'm Charlie, born and raised in the old city in Jerusalem," is how a young guide begins a walking tour sponsored by tenLocals, a new Covid-era company employing local guides in cities around the world who give live tours in real time to travelers over Zoom.

Charlie focuses on Jerusalem where he includes a walk through a Jewish neighborhood bordering the West Bank, and a stroll through the Musrara neighborhood where the Green line (border) between Israel and the West Bank was drawn. 

Finally, The Bradt Guide to Palestine, separate from the publisher's guide to Israel, is one of the few guidebooks devoted exclusively to Palestine. It hasn't been updated since 2011, so it's most useful for general information, historical perspective and an overall sense of why go.

Writes author Sarah Irving, "This tiny area packs in more historical, religious and cultural heritage than perhaps anywhere else in the world."