Ignore the Airbnb pushback; Choose wisely and everyone wins

 

An Airbnb in Taxco, Mexico. The owner lived next door

Should you feel guilty about staying in an Airbnb, given the pushback around the idea that they displace locals, create a shortage of housing and ruin neighborhoods once reserved for long-term residents?

Hotel industry lobbyists are winning support from city governments to restrict or eliminate Airbnbs in many places. Even consumer advocates, such as syndicated columnist Christopher Elliott, urge travelers go back to being tourists rather than "pretending" to live in a neighborhood at the expense of permanent residents."

I argued against those arguments in a recent blog post countering the assumption that Airbnb lost its way when it began opening up its listings to investors with hired managers. Some are, but many are owned by individuals supplementing their incomes by renting out a room, suite or mother-in-law apartment never intended as a full-time residence. 

 "How do you tell the difference?" a reader asked.

A classic Airbnb on Salt Spring Island in British Columbia

Making the right choice when choosing an Airbnb requires research, not only when it comes to ownership, but also the neighborhood, bottom-line price and refund policies. Do your homework, and you won't need to feel guilty about deciding on a spacious Airbnb as opposed to a tiny room in a high-priced hotel. The bonus is not only a larger, more private accommodation, but the chance for a unique cultural experience, especially if you are booking in another country,

Here's what to consider:

After searching for a listing that meets your criteria, scroll down to below the map showing the location to "Meet your host." My husband and I rented a suite in White Rock, British Columbia recently. The owner and her family lived in a house attached to the unit which appeared to have been remodeled to include a kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. The entrance was near the back of her house, and although the unit was well-equipped, I doubt that anyone would find it suitable as a full-time rental.

A typical Airbnb listing with photos. This was our White Rock Airbnb

A unit that is not owned by an individual but rather by a company that hires out the management might list their own name or the names of the same two or three different "hosts" on multiple listings. 

The studio apartment we rented a couple of years ago on Rua das Flores, the main pedestrian street in Porto, Portugal was one of several managed by the same people, a good indication that the owners were investors. The host, Sofia, confirmed she was a real estate consultant who, along with her parents, started buying up units on the street a few years ago.

The view from our Airbnb in Porto

We stayed three nights in the Airbnb and two nights in a small hotel owned and managed by a local couple. Both we lovely, but I admit I felt better about supporting the local innkeepers as opposed to the investors who likely did displace some permanent housing. 

Pricing

The initial price that appears on an Airbnb listing will not be the bottom-line price you see when you hit the "reserve" button. The initial listing will include the Airbnb service fee, but not taxes. Example: I have been looking at an Airbnb in Mexico City where the listed price was $$373 for thee nights. That jumped to $439 when I went to book and $67.12 in taxes were included. Some cities or countries have a per-day tourist tax required to be collected on-site. We discovered this in Malta last spring when the Airbnb owner left a note requesting that we leave 7 euros in cash on the kitchen table before leaving. 

Refund/Cancellation policy

Always check refund and cancellation policies which vary according to the listing. Many Airbnbs have liberal policies allowing for cancellation with a full refund up to a few days ahead of arrival. Pass on bookings that are non-refundable or return just a partial payment minus the Airbnb fees.

Check the reviews

Airbnb publishes all reviews, good or bad, from both customers and owners. Check them carefully as well as the dates they were posted. Only people who have actually stayed in the Airbnb can do a review, so there is no danger of fake postings. 

House rules and amenities 

Some hosts think of everything. Cindy, our host in White Rock, left blueberry muffins, grapes and cheese in the fridge along with half- and -half for coffee. Other hosts leave the cupboards bare except for salt and pepper. Almost all provide a code for opening the door rather than a key. Some make an effort at personal contact; others don't unless you need something. 

Coffee makers are one of the quirkiest variables. Some hosts provide easy-to-use drip machines with ground coffee; others, like Cindy, supply K-cups and a Keurig or Keurig--like coffee maker. Coffee purists tend to stock their units with complicated equipment such as elaborate espresso machines and whole bean grinders.

The most unusual non-amenity I have encountered was at an Airbnb on Salt Spring Island in British Columbia. The owner provided no indoor trash can, just an outdoor compost pile. Guests were expected to provide their own receptacle for taking coffee grounds or food to the compost pile, and pack everything else out when they left.

   

Escape Seattle's summer crowds with these car-free island getaways

The Winslow marina on Bainbridge Island

No one needs an excuse to scoot car-free on a ferry across the Puget Sound for an island getaway.

But come this month and next, when 750,000 soccer fans are expected in Seattle for the FIFA World Cup games, some visitors might be looking for one. 

Whether you're a local or a visitor, a budget-friendly cruise aboard a walk-on ferry will quickly put the traffic and crowds in your rear view mirror.

As the Seattle skyline fades in the distance, relax and plot your visits to bookstores, galleries, museums and farmers' markets in these three Kitsap Peninsula destinations. 

Winslow/Bainbridge Island

A 35-minute ride aboard one of the big green and white Washington State ferries takes you to the doorstep of downtown Winslow, the gateway to Bainbridge Island, a bedroom community on the Kitsap Peninsula.

Start your day on Winslow Way East., a short walk from the ferry dock along a path marked with information on parks, trails and the story about how pickleball was invented here in 1965.

 Anchoring the entrance to town is the free Bainbridge Island Art Museum. This year, it is  showcasing Northwest crafts with a July exhibit featuring the handiwork of local indigenous artists.

Breakfast on the patio at Coquette Bake Shop 

The museum opens daily at 10 a.m., but if you're here earlier, find the Coquette Bake Shop at the corner of Winslow and Madison for coffee and a morning bun on the sunny patio. 

Lining both sides of Winslow Way are street-level shops selling olives, chocolates, books, Turkish rugs and local art and pottery. Smaller stores are tucked away down flights of stairs or in alleyways. That's where you'll find the Rabbit Hole, a shop crammed with upcycled art objects and estate sale finds, and also Backstreet Beat, stocked with vintage vinyl, used books and $1 CDs.

The Rabbit Hole gift shop

Bainbridge was once a timber and shipbuilding center with a population bigger than Seattle’s in the late 1800. To learn about that history and how the island was affected by the internment of Japanese during World War II, stop by the free Bainbridge History Museum. 

End the day with a glass of wine on the rooftop at Fletcher Bay winery,  then find your way to one of the restaurants on the Winslow marina for a late lunch or dinner. Take a woodsy walk back to the ferry dock along the Charles Schmid CQ Waterfront Trail. 

Bremerton/Port Orchard

With views of the Olympic Mountains and Mount Rainier, the $11 (round trip) one-hour cruise aboard a Washington State ferry to the maritime community of Bremerton is a bargain.

If you're short on time, you can get there in half the time via a Kitsap Transit passenger-only fast ferry.

The Admiral Pete foot ferry to Port Orchard

Either way, the best idea is to go on Saturday and add on another 12-minute ferry ride across Sinclair inlet to the rural hamlet of Port Orchard and the Port Orchard Farmers Market. https://www.pofarmersmarket.com.

Dominating the Bremerton skyline is the hulking Puget Sound Naval Shipyard, in this location since 1891. If you're a military buff, visit the free Puget Sound Navy Museum, https://pugetsoundnavymuseum.org CQ or tour the USS Turner Joy, a museum within a retired naval destroyer moored on the waterfront. 

Otherwise, follow signs to the Port Orchard foot ferry for a $2 trip aboard one of Kitsap Transit's electric ferries or the vintage Admiral Pete.

Steamed buns for sale at the Port Orchard Farmers Market

 Make your first stop the farmers market where white canopies line the waterfront. Wander among the stalls to find locally-produced honey, homemade pickles, steamed buns, solar-powered wind chimes and fruits and veggies grown by backyard farmers. Then take some time to explore Bay Street, a throwback to a small-town main drag decorated with gas lamps and covered porticos.  

Stop at Carter and Company for homemade chocolates, ice cream and miniature cheesecakes, or head to Dude's Donuts across the street for gluten-free vegan donuts and coffee. 

Tea Alchemy

Shops come and go with economic ups and downs. One of the newest additions is Tea Alchemy & Gilded Exchange stocking hundreds of loose teas and herbs "apothecary" style with jars for customers to open and smell.

A mainstay is Josephine's Mercantile, started by Samantha Smith, a South Kitsap High School alumna. 

Inspired by her grandmother, Josephine, who saved everything, Smith and a team of small business owners invite customers to hunt for vintage treasures and repurposed goods in a vast space that once housed roller rink.

The ferry back to Bremerton leaves ever half-hour. Before returning to Seattle, catch the dancing water show at Harborside Fountain Park near the naval museum.

Dining with a view is never cheap, but Anthony's at Sinclair Inlet makes it affordable with its daily happy hour ($10 burgers, $7.50 cocktails) on the deck overlooking the harbor. 

Kingston

With just 20 walk-on passengers aboard Kitsap Transit's fast ferry from the Seattle waterfront to Kingston on a recent Friday morning, there were more than enough window seats for everyone to catch a glimpse of passing container ships, the Olympic mountains and Mount Baker.

Kitsap Transit's fast ferry

The boats fill with 100 or more passengers on their way from Kingston to Seattle in the morning, but the “reverse commute” — from Seattle to Kingston and back to Seattle in the late afternoon  - feels like a 40-minute private cruise.

 Most everything to see and do is concentrated along the main street (Highway 104) near the ferry dock, so grab a coffee-to-go at Aviator Coffee in a wooden shed called the Hangar, or plan your day over an espresso milkshake at women-owned Over the Moon Coffee Roasters.

Depending on your timing, lunch could be French crepes under a sidewalk umbrella at J’aime les Crepes ; Argentinian empanadas at Argensol; or British comfort food from the Saucy Sailor where owner Daphne White starts cooking at 8 a.m. inside a 230-square-foot kitchen. Kiwanis Park near the ferry dock has benches and a shaded gazebo for picnicking. 

Walk-up window at the Saucy Sailor

A handful of retailers offer an eclectic mix of small-town finds. The Paisley Whale  vintage shop keeps limited hours, but when it's open, its inventory of collectables, records, books and clothing spills out onto the sidewalk with $5 treasures.

Fly-tie hat pins for sale at Havencraft

At Havencraft,  horticulturist and jewelry artist Anja McElvaney works with her partner Matthew Schaffer, a woodworker, inside a century-old craftsman-style house. Wander the rooms stocked with local pottery, jewelry and handmade soaps, and check their website for dates of summer afternoon porch concerts.  

Take a half-mile walk from the ferry dock up the hill along Highway 104 to find two bookstores and the Borrowed Kitchen Bakery. Savor the smells of baked apple danish, or pick up a rosemary sourdough or walnut pumpkin seed loaf to take home.

Connected to the bakery is Saltwater Bookshop with a curated selection of cookbooks, childrens' books and books on Northwest indigenous culture. A few doors down at the Kingston Bookery, wooden shelves teeter with 30,000 used titles in a shop started by owner Jeff Wiley's parents in 1998.

Saltair Beach at low tide

For a nature walk, "I would suggest people not miss Saltair Beach, just to the right of the ferry dock on the approach to Kingston," says Saltwater Bookshop owner Madison Duckworth. "There are starfish and tide pools to explore, plus a great view of the ferries coming and going."

Wait for the return ferry to Seattle over a beer at the Kingston Alehouse, or depending on the day, a glass of wine at the Cellar Cat  jazz and piano bar.

  If you go: 

Be prepared for ferries to be more crowded than usual during the FIFA games. Boats rarely fill up with walk-on passengers, but it can happen if they reach capacity. Give yourself plenty of time to return to Seattle.

Washington State Ferries operate the Seattle/Bremerton and Seattle/Bainbridge Island daily car and passenger ferries. Walk-on round-trip fares are $11.35 for adults and $5.65 for ages 65 and over. Youths 18 and under ride free. Info at wsdot.wa.gov/ferries 

Kitsap Transit runs a fast passenger-only ferry Monday-Saturday between Pier 50 on the Seattle waterfront and Bremerton; another between Seattle and Kingston; and the daily foot ferry between Bremerton and Port Orchard. Adult fares are $2 from Bremerton or Kingston to Seattle ($1 for seniors) and $13 from Seattle to Bremerton or Kingston ($6.50 for seniors). Youths 18 and under ride free. Adult fares for the Bremerton/Port Orchard foot ferry are $2 each way, $1 for seniors and free for youths 18 and under.

West Seattle getaway

If you're short on time, and looking for a quick waterborne getaway, consider a trip to West Seattle where there's ferry service to a scenic walking and biking path skirting Alki Beach. 

King County Metro operates a daily walk-on water taxi between the Seattle's Pier 50 and West Seattle's Seacrest Park. Crossing time is 10-15 minutes. Adult fares are $6.25 each way ($5.25 with Orca card) and $2.50 for seniors. Youths 18 and under ride free.

This story appeared in The Seattle Times on June 13, 2026.

The Star Princess, the newest and biggest Alaska-bound ship will call in Seattle starting next May

 

An acrobatic performance on the piazza

When the 2026 Alaska cruise season launches next May, the Star Princess, the largest and newest ship to call in the 49th state, will homeport in Seattle, but don't expect to find water slides or a go-cart track on the top deck.

Think instead of viewing glaciers from inside a geodesic, glass-enclosed dome, or petting baby sled dogs as they roam around a central piazza encased in a glass sphere with panoramic views.

Oh, and did I mention the pickleball courts and Tiramisu cocktails?

Princess Cruises, one if 15 cruise lines to call out of Seattle next year, is doubling-down on Alaska by focusing on its core niche - a 50-plus crowd of active global travelers.

"Alaska really anchors our brand," said Princess Cruises president Gus Antorcha. Princess, owned by Carnival Corporation, which also operates Carnival and Holland America cruises from Seattle, dispatches half of its fleet to Alaska during the summer, Antorcha said. "We always want to make sure we take our newest ships there."

The 21-deck Star, with a passenger guest capacity of 4,300, will sail through the Inside Passage (7 days roundtrip from Seattle) from May 3 to September 6, with ports of call in Juneau, Skagway, and Ketchikan, and scenic cruising through Glacier Bay or Endicott Arm & Dawes Glacier. 

Travel agents and writers had a chance to explore the new ship recently where it is home-ported for the winter in Port Everglades, Florida. 

A candlelight concert in the Dome

The takeway: This is a ship cleverly designed to experience the best of being outdoors when the weather is warm, while providing cozy, light-filled indoor spaces for cooler temperatures in Alaska.

"You need to be flexible," Antorcha said. "You could have very sunny days in Alaska or a bit of drizzle. What is great about this ship is that you can be inside and still experience what it's like to be outdoors." 

An outdoor deck with lounge chairs and hot tub

While warm-weather travelers can take advantage of  living-room like seating on outdoor decks, cooler weather will draw passengers inside the covered Dome, a multi-level, glass-enclosed venue that functions as an indoor pool area during the day, then transforms into an entertainment venue at night for shows and candlelight concerts.

Also indoors, surrounded by a sphere of glass, is a multi-deck atrium called the Piazza, a central hub for socializing, entertainment, and dining. 

The ships programming shifts for Alaska cruises with a focus on cultural and educational activities, but its configuration stays the same. With the exception of the small pool in the Dome, the other pools are outdoors. Outdoor lounge areas are not heated which means grabbing a blanket and hot toddy on chilly days and nights.

Other standout features

*Twelve low-key bars scattered throughout the ship, some specializing in their own signature cocktails such as a popular Tiramisu cocktail and the 24K Gold Margarita, made with Pantalones Organic Tequila, a brand co-founded by Matthew and Camila McConaughey, who christened the Star Princess.

The Bellini Bar's Tiramisu cocktail

*Ten specialty and casual dining restaurants (in addition to main dining rooms) including my favorite, the Makoto Ocean Japanese restaurant serving fresh sushi in an airy space with ocean views. The meat-centered Butcher's Block, created in partnership with Italian butcher Dario Cecchini, was filled the entire three days we were on the cruise, an indication that passengers interested in specialty dining should book ahead. 

Freshly prepared tuna at Makoto Ocean

Dario Cecchini carving meat aboard the Star Princess

 *The walk-up international cafe, open 24/7, with glass cases stocked with pastries, yogurt parfaits and smoked salmon sandwiches in the morning and light bites and desserts in the afternoon and evenings. 

A light bite from the International Cafe

 * Spellbound by Magic Castle, an immersive, speakeasy-style lounge with magic shows, Victorian-themed rooms and drinks. This one is worth the $45 admission price which includes cocktails and a show based on vaudeville and the Great Cardini, a card magician (Richard Pitchford) who presided over the Magician's Guild in 1945.

Inside the Spellbound speakeasy

* The Sanctuary Collection, a ship within a ship, with 80 suites,123 mini suites and 12 deluxe balconies; a top- deck retreat area with private cabanas; and a private dining room and lounge.

*The Princess Medallion, a small, round button that keeps track of where you are and allows you to unlock staterooms, order food and drinks, and shop onboard from anywhere.

Antorcha describes Princess as family-friendly rather than family-focused. Younger travelers will enjoy an underground teen lounge, a junior ranger programs and baby sled dogs brought on board during Alaska sailings.

If I had it to do over again

I would have sampled Lido Tacos and Coffee and Cones on the Lido deck. This is a new addition for Princess, and looked like fun.

Our evening meals were hosted in the speciality restaurants, but if I were on my own, I would have sampled the Indian and seafood offerings at the Eatery buffet. This is a hectic and busy area of the ship, so best suggestion is to get what you want and take it out a table on the deck, or to a quieter area in back.

Skipped both port stops - the Princess Cays, Princess' private island, and Nassau in the Bahamas - and enjoyed being on the ship when most everyone else was away.

Pricing and rooms

Guests can choose among 2,157 staterooms, including more than 1,000 balcony rooms and 51 accessible rooms. 

The best deals on all cruises come during  "wave season," a promotional period starting in January. The Princess Star website recently showed a starting price of $974 per person for an interior room on May sailings. Balcony rooms jump to $1,574. 

Worth considering are one of two add-on packages. The Plus package ($70 per day) covers one Wi-Fi device,  daily gratuities, unlimited casual dining, and a generous beverage package for alcoholic drinks, speciality coffees and mocktails costing up to $15 each (The 14K Gold Margarita is covered). 

The Premier package ($105) covers more expensive beverages (such as the Tiramisu cocktail), dining at specialty restaurants and multiple devices for Wi-Fi. 

Cruising out of Seattle 

The Port of Seattle's 2026 cruise season is scheduled from mid-May to early October, with an estimated 330 ship calls for cruises to Alaska, Mexico, Hawaii, and Asia. The season will feature 27 ships from 15 different lines, including new lines Virgin Voyages and MSC Cruises. About 2.1 million passengers are expected to sail. 

Alaska Airlines vs. Delta: Game on

 

Alaska Airlines purchased Hawaiian Airlines in September

Seattle-based Alaska Airlines is hoping its loyal base of Northwest customers will no longer have to look to competing airlines when booking international travel.

"This is our city to serve," said CCO Andrew Harrison, laying down the gauntlet primarily to Delta Airlines which flies 25 percent of international passengers out of Seattle-Tacoma International Airport compared to Alaska's 16 percent.

Alaska, which flies 57 percent of Seattle's domestic passengers, uses partner airlines for international connections. Now with a fleet of wide-body Boeing 787 Dreamliners acquired through its purchase of Hawaiian Airlines last September, it has been one-upping the much-larger Delta with a series of announcements aimed at including flights to 12 international cities by 2030. 

 Alaska will be flying non-stop between Seattle and London Heathrow; Rome; and Reykjavik, Iceland (seasonal flights aboard the 737-8 MAX) starting in the spring of 2026. It began non-stops to Tokyo-Narita in May, and will add non-stops for Seoul (using the Airbus A330-200) in September. 

Delta, which flies non-stop to Seoul, Tokyo, Taipei, Shanghai, London, Amsterdam and Paris from Seattle, relies on partners KLM and Air France for onward connections in Europe. It answered Alaska's moves by announcing plans of its own for a new non-stops to Rome and Barcelona next May, cutting out the need to connect through Paris or Amsterdam.

What will all of this mean for passengers? Hopefully some price competition. Alaska will now be competing with its current partner, Iceland Air, on flights to Reykjavik;  British Air on flights to London; and Japan Airlines on flights to Tokyo. 

Delta customers, unhappy with its requirements for elite status, could decide to switch their elite status to Alaska, given a wider selection of international options that can be booked directly with the airline. Delta requires a minimum yearly spend of $5,000 to maintain Silver Elite status while Alaska's requirements for MVP Gold center on the number of miles or segments flown, bars easier to reach with the addition of longer, international routes.

Flight amenities and comfort will depend on the specific route. Delta has the superior in-flight seat-back entertainment system while Alaska passengers must stream movies and TV shows on their own devices. Delta seems to have lowered the quality of its food service on international flights in recent years, so it will be interesting to see if Alaska can do better.

Alaska‘s newest lounge at Sea-Tac Airport

Both airlines have high-end lounges in Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, a busy airport getting busier with the number of new international routes being added by Alaska, Delta another airlines. 

To play in the big leagues, Alaska will have to up its game when it comes to the level of customer service and staffing that international flights require. Sea-Tac customers often complain of long waits to reach someone on the phone or long lines at its airport service desks when problems occur. 

Had a data center hardware failure that caused a three-hour, system-wide ground stop here recently occurred on a flight originating in Europe, customers would have been entitled to major cash compensation under European laws.

EC Regulation 261 grants passengers the right to seek compensation when they have experienced delays (two to four hours or more), cancelled, or overbooked flights, with few exceptions. Those include weather, strikes, security risks etc. but not technical problems.

All carriers, including U.S.-based airlines, are subject to the rules when flying inside or out of the EU. 

 

Fraser Country: City life gives way to rural adventures 30 miles from Vancouver B.C.

 

A winery and vineyard on the Langley self-guided farm tour

With spring flowers in bloom and summer approaching, those crossing the Canadian border towards Vancouver B.C. might want to bypass the usual urban adventures for a rural getaway.

Think visits to wineries and breweries; farm stores; and walks or bike rides along scenic river paths.

They call it Fraser Country, a fertile valley formed by the Lower Fraser River, running 90 miles between Vancouver and Hope B.C.

Build along a floodplain just 30 miles east of Vancouver are berry and dairy farms, dikes for biking or walking and outdoor tasting rooms surrounded by soaring mountains in an area commonly called the Lower Fraser Valley. 

Agriculture is the main focus, but visitors will also find golf courses, opportunities for sturgeon and salmon fishing; kyaking and mountain hikes, all within a short drive of the historic town of Fort Langley on south side of the river, and the suburban towns of Pitt Meadows and Maple Ridge to the north.

Downtown Fort Langley

Quaint Fort Langley brims with locally-owned cafes, restaurants, antique shops and bakeries.  It’s best-known as the home to the Fort Langley National Historic Site,  the former Hudson Bay Company's fur trading post declared by the British as the birthplace of British Columbia in 1858.   

Pitt Meadows and Maple Ridge, at first glance mostly  housing developments and strip malls, are hidden corners of tranquility nestled between the Pitt, Alouette and Fraser Rivers in the foothills of the Golden Ears mountains.

 Both sides, connected by the Golden Ears Bridge in what's known as the Lower Fraser River Valley, have their advantages. Fort Langley has more lodging. Pitt Meadows and Maple Ridge have fewer tourists.

Farm tours

Wherever you base, start your explorations by following the Langely Self-Guided Circle Farm tour, a roadmap to 16 farm stores, U-pick farms, wineries, breweries and more.      

Milner Valley Cheese

Among the many worthy stops is Milner Valley Cheese, a producer of farmstead cheeses made with pasteurized goat milk from the family’s herd of long-eared Nubian and Alpine goats. Visitors can pick up cheeses and ice cream in the farm store, then picnic in the garden while the goats are in the pasture, or peak into the milking parlor.

U-pick berry farms welcome visitors

The biggest farm store and U-pick farm in the area is Krause Berry Farms.  A tent set up next to a huge blue barn fills year-round with regulars who line up for freshly-made waffles pilled with strawberries or seasonal berries. Visit in the summer for U-pick strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries. 

Krause Berry Farms' strawberry waffle

Set in a wooded area overlooking a pond is Locality Brewing, a farm-to-glass brewery that grows its hops and barley in fields next to its rural taproom. Chairs and picnic tables are strewn around a  dog-friendly outdoor tasting room where a food truck with bison burgers pulls up in the afternoons.

Locality Brewing

Views of the Golden Ears mountains set the scene for relaxing  with a cocktail on a shaded patio at Roots & Wings Distillery, the first craft distillery in Langley Township. 

The tasting room is a single-wide trailer resembling a cabin in the hills of Kentucky. Inside are shelves filled with vodka, gin and whiskey bottles decorated with colorful labels picturing the mountains and a vintage tractor the owners once used to plow their fields. 

Partners Rebekah Crowley and Rob Rindt do  everything on Rob's family farm, from planting, growing and harvesting the potatoes and botanicals used in their spirits, to fermenting and distilling. 

Biking the dikes

With about 40 miles of interconnected trails, the Maple Ridge-Pitt Meadows dike system, seven miles across the Fraser from Fort Langley,  offers bikers many choices for rides along flat, mostly hard-packed gravel paths. 

Bike and walking path along the Pitt River

Built by Dutch settlers in the 1950s as a method of flood control, the dikes form an interconnected system of walking and bicycling trails along the Pitt, Alouette CQ and Fraser Rivers.

Let's go Biking, a website dedicated to easy rides around metro Vancouver, outlines a variety of rides of varying lengths with access points, directions and sights marked on printable maps. 

Doable in a half-day is the Ridge Meadows Circle route, a 20-mile ride along all three rivers, mostly on dikes and and a few roads with dedicated bike lanes.  

Starting at the planned community of Osprey Village in Pitt Meadows, cyclists pedal first along the banks of the Fraser, then along a narrow path in the forested Pitt River Greenway. The trail widens as it leaves the woods, and continues past a small airport, a cedar mill, blueberry farms and cranberry bogs along the Fraser and Pitt Rivers. 

Most scenic is at leg of the trail along the south side of the Alouette, the most peaceful of the three rivers, with views of Golden Ears in the late afternoon light. 

Cycling the dikes

Before or after a ride, take time to stop in Osprey Village for coffee and a snack at the Stomping Grounds Cafe & Bistro, or a gelato at Sweet Tooth Creamery. Stop in at the Pitt Meadows Art Gallery, a free community gallery supporting the work of local and regional artists.

Osprey Village 

 Hiking in Grant Narrows Provincial Park

Twelve miles from Osprey Village is Grant Narrows Provincial  Park, a dog-friendly wilderness area and wildlife habitat where the Pitt River meets the 16-mile-long Pitt Lake. 

A four-mile walk along the Katzie Marsh Loop starts in the Pitt-Addington Marsh Wildlife Management Area which supports more than 200 bird and 29 mammal species.

Along the Katzie Marsh Loop

The walk incorporates a hike along the Pitt River dike trail, a flat, wide trail of packed gravel, flanked on one side by the Pitt River, and the other by a marsh filled with watershields, rooted plants that float on the surface similar to water lilies, but smaller. 

To make the most of the scenery, be sure to take climb the wooden lookout towers to spot ducks, geese, herons and osprey.

Lookout tower for spotting wildlife

On the way to or from the park, plan a stop for breakfast, lunch or picnic supplies at Golden Ears Cheescrafters https://cheesecrafters.ca CQ where two Maple Ridge sisters make cheeses, curds and butter using milk from their dairy next door.

If this trip wets your appetite for more, consider exploring further east to Harrison Hot Springs, B.C.'s  resort community on the shore of Harrison Lake. 

From there, the Fraser River narrows at the town of Hope, the gateway to B.C.’s interior. Once a fur trade and gold rush town, it is known as the “Chainsaw Carving Capital” with 20 giant wooden sculptures scattered around town.

If you go:

Expect good value:  Fewer Canadians are coming to the U.S.  due to political concerns, but American visitors are being welcomed as usual.

Travel in Canada is an especially good value right now. Something priced at $1 Canadian costs just 71 cents U.S. based on current exchange rates.

Getting there: If Vancouver isn't on your itinerary, bypass the  Blaine/Peach Arch border crossing, and detour from Interstate- 5 to the Lynden / Aldergrove crossing. Fort Langley is 15 miles from the border. Pitt Meadows and Maple Ridge are a few miles north of Fort Langley, across the Fraser River via the Golden Ears Bridge.  

For general tourism and lodging information: See https://www.thefraservalley.ca  

Tourism Langley has info at https://www.tourism-langley.ca 

For Maple Ridge and Pitt meadows info, see https://www.travel-british-columbia.com/vancouver-coast-mountains/vancouver-area/maple-ridge-pitt-meadows/ CQ

Farm tours: Download a map for the Langley Self-Guided Farm Tour at https://www.thefraservalley.ca/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/Langley-Circle-Farm-Tour-2025-Guide.pdf CQ Seasonal hours vary so check websites before venturing out.

Trail maps: Let's Go Biking has suggested routes along the dike trails, along with maps and trail descriptions. See also http://www.alltrails.com  

Park info: The City of Pitt Meadows has information on Grant Narrows Regional Park at https://www.pittmeadows.ca/parks-recreation/parks-fields-facilities/parks-list/pitt-addington-marshgrant-narrows CQ

Vancouver repurposed Shipyards District welcomes spring visitors

 

 A yellow crane still sits in Shipbuilders' Square where the former copper shop houses the Tap and Barrel pub

Canadians may not be coming to the U.S. this spring due to hurt feelings over President Trump's tariffs and threats to annex the country, but there's no reason Americans should stay away from Canada. 

The exchange rate is favorable, and no, you won't feel as if you're not wanted. The Canadians my husband and I met on a recent trip from Seattle to Vancouver, B.C. were polite and friendly as usual. Of course we weren't driving a Tesla and didn't have a Trump/Vance bumper sticker on our car. Nevertheless, I didn't feel that anti-America feelings were translating into anti-American sentiments.

Our destination was North Vancouver, home the Lower Lonsdale neighborhood and the Shipyards District, a repurposed industrial area filled with hotels, restaurants, cafes, a historical museum and art galleries. 

The SeaBus crosses Burrard Inlet from the Vancouver waterfront

Anchored by the Lonsdale Quay Market & Food Hall, parks, public piers and community gathering spaces invite lingering on sunny days and relaxing by night next to blazing gas heaters and fire pits.

Day One; The Shipyards

Hope on the TransLink SeaBus for a 12-minute SeaBus ride across the Burrard Inlet from the Vancouver waterfront, and arrive 12 minutes later at the Lonsdale Quay.

Settle into one of three hotels. The Pinnacle Hotel at the Pier and the Seaside Hotel have  views of the Vancouver skyline lighted at night. The Lonsdale Quay Hotel is inside the market. If you drive, leave the car parked. Everything is within walking distance.

Get the lay of the land by taking a Taste Vancouver Food Tour, a walk that combines a walk through the Lonsdale Qua Market bites from restaurants, breweries, ice cream and chocolate shops with historical tidbits about the area.

The Lonsdale Quay Market

The Wallace Shipyard, opened here in 1906, and grew into one of the biggest industrial operations in Western Canada. Productivity peaked in World War II, and as demand for ships declined, the yard was sold in 1971 and closed in the early 1990s.

 A large yellow crane still sits in Shipbuilders' Square where the former copper shop houses the Tap and Barrel pub.  Named for the family that ran a tug boat business here in the 1900s is Cates Deck, a  plaza where visitors can relax with a beer or glass of wine.

The heart of the development is Shipyards Commons, a covered gathering spot that was once the machine shop. A community splash park open in summer converts to an outdoor ice skating rink in winter. The Shipyards Night Market takes place Friday nights from May 16 through mid-September with food vendors and live music.

Winter ice skating

Day Two: Bikes and brews

Rent E-bikes from Reckless Shipyards, and hit the North Shore Spirit Trail, a flat 20-mile paved greenway for cyclists and pedestrians. Head west through Waterfront Park just past the SeaBus terminal, then through residential areas with views of Grouse Mountain to the north. Follow the trail under the Lions Gate Bridge and through a wooded area along the Capilano River. Container ships heading into Vancouver come into view at Ambleside beach and village, a good stop for coffee or lunch before heading back.

The North Shore Spirit Trail

For a light dinner, check out out one of the Shipyards happy hours, then spend the evening exploring the Lower Lonsdale neighborhood and the North Shore Ale Trail.

Along the North Shore Ale Trail

Popular with locals are seven garage door-style local breweries, a distillery, a winery and a cidery. Favorites include dog-friendly North Point Brewing with an outdoor deck, and the tiny Streetcar Brewing, named for the vintage street cars that took shipyard workers up the hill after their shifts. 

Chicken sandwiches from Cream Pony

Order a fried chicken sandwich or lemon curd donut from Cream Pony next door and settle in around the fire pit with a low-alcohol peach radler, the brewery's take on a German-style mix of beer and lemonade.

Day Three: Culture crawl

Start with a breakfast of salmon or avocado toast and at Nemesis Coffee next to the Polygon Gallery, the North Shore's premier art and public cultural facility operated by the British Columbia Photography and Media Arts Society. On now though May 25 is an exhibit dedicated to the work of Nigerian photographer Rotimi Fani-Kayode. The first-floor boutique is one of the area's best destinations for finding quality North Coast native art, jewelry, pottery, clothing and skin care products made by Canadian artisans. 

Nearby is the Inuit Gallery of Vancouver with a museum-quality collection of Inuit, Northwest Coast First Nations and other Canadian art. 

Vintage street car at the Museum of North Vancouver

A block away is the Museum of North Vancouver with a permanent collection of exhibits tracing the area's history, beginning with the economic contributions of the Squamish Nation and Tsleil-Waututh people.

A volunteer gives visitors guided tours

The museum's centerpiece is a restored vintage street car that ran along Lonsdale Avenue from 1912-1946. Car 153 was one of 13 street railway cars which carried passengers from the ferry wharf to Upper Lonsdale and the Capilano Canyon. 

Decommissioned in 1946, it was sold for $150 and was being used as a chicken coop when transit historian and Vancouver bus operations manager Brian Kelly found it in a farmer's field.

The City of North Vancouver purchased the car, and stored it for 33 years until it was restored and given a permanent home in the museum. 


Nighttime view of the Vancouver skyline from the Shipyards District

If you go:

If coming without a car, take the SeaBus, a passenger-only ferry that runs daily between the Vancouver waterfront and the Lonsdale Quay every 15 minutes.  See https://www.translink.ca/schedules-and-maps/seabus for schedules and fares.

If driving from downtown Vancouver, take the Lions Gate Bridge (BC-99 N) to Marine Dr and Chesterfield Avenue in North Vancouver. Nearby sites include Grouse Mountain and Capilano Suspension Bridge Park.  

Visit Vancouver's North Shore Tourism Association for more information